There’s a certain slice of early ’70s culture that I find quite charming. That would be the back-to-basics, do-it-yourself part, for those of you who were expecting something quite inappropriate for an academic blog. I love it especially in cookbooks, where my collection suggests that people revolted from an oppressive kind of domestic regime, the kind that wanted women to hand-frost six dozen cookies, but they weren’t willing to give up on the kitchen altogether. The “crunchy granola” crowd put out some real gems, suggesting that we do radical things like bake our own bread and plant our own gardens. (Not that this was a majority, of course. I’m pretty sure that my copy of The Joys of Jello is from the early 1970s. You do not even want to know the ingredients for “Chicken Mousse.”) You have to keep your eye out for the excessive “crunchiness” of some of the recipes, but there’s also a real, joyful earnestness and a belief, untainted by cynicism, that the way we eat can really change the world. I like to think that my generation of cooks has something to learn here, something that shopping at Whole Foods alone isn’t going to teach anybody.
In my case, that’s baking bread. I’ve done it before, like most products of a large southern family. When I first moved out on my own, I learned to cook all over again with the help of Mollie Katzen, another product of the same ’70s movement. (This had the somewhat unfortunate side effect of making every dish I make too garlicky for anyone else to eat. I think every recipe in Still Life with Menu calls for at least three cloves, and I distinctly remember making a soup that called for twelve.) I made bread with Mollie in my tiny kitchen, with the cookbook on the floor because there was nowhere else to put it, but it was more as a treat than as a regular event.
Then came my true, wheat-y love, The Tassajara Bread Book. Originally published in 1970, but still available at your local bookstore, this book is everything I love about that back-to-the-earth crowd. There’s the occasional recipe that no sane person would ever try (my very favorite in this category is the “Gruel Bread,” made from all that leftover rice gruel you just happen to have sitting around), but there’s also a fundamental honesty and decency and practicality. Instead of our modern cult of celebrity chefs, the author tells us bluntly: “I am not a great baker . . . I do not bake to be great. I bake because it is wholesome. I feel renewed, and I am renewing the world.” The bread takes forever–four risings of up to 45 minutes, if I’m remembering correctly, plus the stirring and kneading. You do not bake this bread on a whim, unless that whim happens at 10:00 in the morning on a day you’re likely to be home. It is the definition of slow food. And I like that.
These days, the bread is a perfect companion. My trusty kitchen timer calls me away from whatever I’m doing, be it a break that has gone on a little too long or a work session that has made me lose track of time, just often enough to keep me honest. Bread, except in the early measuring stages, requires just enough attention to let your mind think up good ideas on its own. It’s the perfect companion to academic work. And, unlike the other rewards of academic work, the result is tangible and, better yet, edible.